After days of celebrations and parties and high feasts, today was a fairly quiet day, a much needed lull and rest! We had one of our last classes on Ecumenism and Interreligious dialogue today with Fr. Baima, and most of the rest of the day free! Some preparations were being made for our little New Year’s Eve celebration, and for leaving Betharram House. It has definitely become our home. It will be especially hard to bid farewell to Sr. Josepina, Sr. Mary, and Sr. Mukta, three sisters from India and Sri Lanka who have done so much work, especially in the kitchen. And some of us are assigned to wash dishes every day with them, so we have gotten to know them well.
The Church of the Nativity is quieter now, the Orthodox are making preparations for their celebration of Christmas on January 7th. Many of us have been making our last visits to the Grotto of the Nativity and other nearby sites. It is also the last chance to do any souvenir shopping in Bethlehem. All reports indicate that many things are much more expensive in Jerusalem.
So, among packing, cleaning, and last minute trips to the Church of the Nativity or to the souvenir stores, the New Year rapidly approaches! On January 1st, off to Galilee!
Today was a light day as we began preparations for moving from the Betharram Residence in Bethlehem to the Notre Dame Center in Jerusalem. Many of us have begun the process of packing our bags and cleaning our rooms.
We celebrated Mass this morning at the Milk Grotto Church. We had our first visit to the Milk Grotto shortly after our arrival in Bethlehem during a walking tour. According to legend this is the place Mary went for privacy when she need to feed her newborn son Jesus. There is a devotion associated with this site where couples struggling with infertility use a white powder found at this site, pray the third Joyful Mystery daily and request the intercession of the Blessed Mother. Many letters with pictures of children have been sent affirming the effectiveness of this devotion.
New Year’s Eve! We had turkey for dinner tonight, and the sisters decorated and put out candles and the nice tablecloths. We had toasts and the rector of the house gave a speech and passed out champagne- they also gave us Italian "yule-log" cake! One of the sisters gave us a scare when she fainted at our Holy Hour, but she has since recovered well.
Since it was our last day in Bethlehem a lot of us spent the time going to our favorite places or packing up our bags. Most of us got together and waited up for midnight, playing cards and listening to music. Some of our Hispanic guys made us awesome homemade guacamole, and the celebration was altogether low-key (though we did cheer at midnight and shake each others’ hands). We have an early start tomorrow morning when we head back up to Nazareth!
Today we left Betharram for good and began our week trip in Galilee. It was sad leaving the priests, brothers, and sisters of that house. They really had become our family, and life there had become, at least for some, to feel like home. In some ways that was a real luxury because for the rest of our stay in the Holy Land we will be staying in more hotel type places. I think the sisters felt the same as we were leaving. Two of them were there to see us off, and they certainly had tears in their eyes as they waved us good-bye. May we never forget them and their kindness and generosity towards us which made our stay in Bethlehem so enjoyable.
From Bethlehem we went to Jerusalem where we dropped off the luggage that we wouldn’t be taking on the week trip to Galilee. While there, we also picked up Fr. Peter Damian Akpunonu, who will be with us for the rest of stay in the Holy Land. Our class on the history of Israel will begin in a few days with him. For this trip to Galilee, not only is Fr. Peter Damian new to the group, but we also have a new guide and a new bus driver. Both are a wonderful addition to our group.
From Jerusalem, we headed to the coast and traveled north along the Via Maris (Way/Road of the Sea). This road goes along the edge of the Mediterranean Sea, and for many of us this is the first time that we have seen this body of water, apart from flying over it late at night on our way to Tel Aviv. It was a beautiful sight, especially after so many days in the dry area of Bethlehem and environs.
Our first stop on the coast was Caesarea Maritima. The major part of this ancient city had been built by Herod the Great to be the port for Palestine. During Roman times it really was the capitol of this province. Back then, Jerusalem held no real significance except as the religious center for the Jews. It was in this city that St. Peter came to baptize Cornelius and his family, and it was the city in which St. Paul was imprisoned for two years before being sent to Rome. Over time, it also became a great center of Christianity, with the pagan art and architecture being overtaken by Christian. During the crusader times it was a major port for them, though later, in 1291, it was from Caesarea Maritima that the last crusader set sail from the Holy Land.
At Caesarea Maritima, Benjamin Arevalos gave a reflection on the conversion and baptism of Cornelius and his family. It was a beautiful reflection touching on the fact that all of us are Christians because Cornelius paved the way for missionary work to the Gentiles. It is a reminder and call to us that our mission as Christians and as future priests is to all peoples.
From Caesarea Maritima we traveled a little farther up the coast to Haifa, which is the third largest city in Israel. It has a good economy of both manufacturing and high-tech industries. Before heading to our next stop, we made the all important stop for lunch, which was just down the street from the center of the Bahai Faith, the Bahai House of Worship. It is an impressive place with very beautiful gardens and buildings. We didn’t hear too much about it because we were promised a talk on it at a later date.
After lunch we headed up Mount Carmel, or rather the tip of the Mount Carmel range at Haifa, and came to the Carmelite convent, where we would spend the night. It is a beautiful place, though it took us a while to figure out how to get around the house. The place had been destroyed, rebuilt, and added on to so many times that it was virtual maze of passages and buildings. In the evening we had Mass in one of the chapels there, not the basilica. Even so, it was a beautiful chapel with paintings of many of the saints and biblical figures in the history of the Carmelite order.
At this Mass I gave my reflection on the encounter between Elijah and the prophets of Baal on Mount Carmel. I spoke to the brothers about our own call to be prophets, especially the share in Christ’s prophetic ministry that we will receive at ordination. I exhorted them to prepare themselves by putting to death the idolatries of their patterns of sin, vice, and attachments, borrowing the language of the Church and the Fathers.
The basilica on Mount Carmel is a beautiful place. It is not very large; I guess it could seat at most a hundred people. It is uniquely constructed, though, because it is on three levels. The congregation sits on one level. In front of them are some steps that go down to small cave, which tradition holds to be Elijah’s cave. Over this cave, and over the height of the main floor, is the sanctuary. Over the high altar is a beautiful statue of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Though as regards seating the basilica is not very large, it is a tall structure. The main dome is about three to four stories high. All around the church are pictures and images from the Carmelite tradition, and even the dome is magnificently painted with images from the bible and the history of the order.
Last night we slept at Stella Maris Guest House, which is run by the Carmelites right on the crest of Mount Carmel, overlooking Haifa. Today we ventured out on a series of interesting visits.
First, we went to an overlook above the Bahai Shrine here in Haifa. This is one of the places where the founder of the Bahai faith, the Bab, spent time. It is actually a Mausoleum where he was buried at one time. The intricate and orderly gardens are a key visual feature of Bahai properties. While it started out in some respects as a group within Shia Islam, Bahai developed considerably. Our guide explained some aspects, as did Fr. Baima.
After that we went down into Haifa for a visit with Archbishop Chacour. He is the Melkite bishop, that is, Greek Catholic. He spoke to us for maybe half an hour or so, and took a number of questions. Then he signed his books, Blood Brothers and We Belong to the Land. His family has lived in northern Galilee for many generations, and he preaches a message of peace and reconciliation, as well as equal rights, in spite of the loss of their land and village when the State of Israel was founded in 1948. He spoke very frankly, humorously, but also in a challenging way. They also served us delicious thick Turkish coffee and sweets!
Then we stopped at Bet Shearim, one of the places the Sanhedrin fled to after the fall of Jerusalem in 70 AD. Below the town is a very extensive cemetery with huge caves full of sarcophagi. We explored the caves, and then headed to Nazareth for lunch at the same place we’d lunched some weeks before: the Fontana di Maria. After a hearty lunch, we headed for Zippori, a large set of ancient ruins a little to the north and west of Nazareth. It is speculated that this may have been where Saints Anne and Joachim raised the Blessed Mother, and where Joseph met her. There is little solid evidence one way or the other, but the circumstantial evidence is plausible. There are also some very beautiful and extensive mosaics and a Crusader tower. After exploring the ruins, we headed back to the guesthouse of the Sister’s of Nazareth, where we had stayed on our first venture into Galilee.
The day was full, and an interesting mix of contemporary experiences: the Bahai faith, and meeting Archbishop Chacour, and archaeological/historical experiences at Bet Shearim and Zippori. To have the evening in Nazareth really topped it all off with another opportunity to be near and pray in the Basilica of the Annunciation, where the Incarnation took place!
The Mass of the Annunciation was celebrated at the grotto in the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth. After Mass we had breakfast at the Sisters of Nazareth Residence before catching the bus to visit Akko and Fasuta on our way to Pilgerhaus which is located on the Sea of Galilee.
Akko is an ancient city across the bay from Haifa. During our visit to Haifa we were unable to see Akko but today the weather was clear enough that we were able to see Haifa located where the Carmel Mountain chain meets the Mediterranean Sea. Over the years Akko was controlled by the Turks, the Crusaders and the British. For many years it was a busy shipping port.
During the tour we walked through
what was used as a sewer system during peaceful times and an escape tunnel when
the city was under attack. We visited some of the rooms used by the Knights
Templar and Hospitallers and an old inn where merchants and their horses stayed
after arriving in a caravan. The materials were shipped from Akko during that
time; there was also a service fee that was charged for handling the merchandise being shipped.
We had a wonderful lunch on the water before heading to Fasuta. Fasuta is a town
in upper Galilee whose residents are all Melkite Catholics. We visited the
community center which houses a computer lab that was jointly funded by the
Archdiocese of Chicago and the Jewish Federation of Chicago. One of the problems
in this area is emigration due to lack of employment and educational
opportunities. One of the goals for funding the computer lab is to encourage
residents to remain in Fasuta and reduce the number of Christian emigrants
leaving the Holy Land.
After visiting the Melkite Catholic Church and taking a walking tour we boarded the bus again to complete travels this day when we arrived at Pilgerhaus located on the Sea of Galilee. We will remain at Pilgerhaus until Monday, January 7th when we return to Notre Dame Center in Jerusalem.
We had a busy day today around the north shore of the Sea of Galilee! We started off the day with Mass in Capernaum, where Jesus performed many of His miracles. There is a modern sort of church there which looks like a flying saucer floating over an archeological dig- when one is inside there are surrounding windows and a large glass floor in the center through which the ruins of an ancient church can be seen, and it is said that this was built over the house of Peter’s mother in law. Inside it feels more like an upside down boat- (maybe like the boat which Peter left behind on the nearby shore?).
Following Capernaum we went to Kursi, where Jesus healed the demoniac who had been wandering the hillsides and where the herd of 1,000 possessed swine ran into the Sea of Galilee. Those hills were incredible (they reminded me a bit of Ireland), we stood at the ruins of a church, but didn’t have time to walk up the hill to the chapel which commemorates the spot where the healing took place. We also went to Korazim, some more ancient ruins- these tucked into the stone-speckled grassy hills.
We stopped at the ruins of Magdala as well, where Mary Magdalene was from. There was a nearby restaurant where we ate fish from the Sea of Galilee. Then we went to see the remains of a 2,000 year old fishing boat that was only recently discovered. Quite a thought that maybe it had been Peter’s boat! Or maybe James and John’s? Who knows! By this time it had started to rain, but we persevered and took a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee- it was hazy and still. It’s pretty small too (by my standard of the Great Lakes, which I realize is not quite fair); only 7 miles by 11!
It’s been a very difficult schedule to keep even though we’re visiting such amazing places (at every site we listen to the tour guide, hear a reflection, and are around each other nonstop!), so it was with grateful hearts that we received from the inclement weather a free afternoon to spend on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. When we got back to the House for Pilgrims seven or eight of us from the northern states (and one brave soul from Texas) went swimming- a brisk adventure!
After the swim I decided to find the nearby Benedictine monastery so I could pray vespers (Evening Prayer) with the monks. After obtaining the key to a gate and some vague directions from the receptionist I made my way down the drive past the lush vegetation and through some gates into an orchard. Here there was a lantern-lit path which I walked until it ran out of light and came to a fork, at which point I made my decisions of direction based on where angry barking dogs could and could not be heard. Luckily a fit bald man with glasses came out of a house somewhere and I asked him which way to the monastery (it took a few languages on both ends before we realized that both of us spoke English), to which he gave me a warm welcome and a firm handshake and led me up to the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves. There’s a little courtyard there with an olive tree in the middle and a pool filled with colorful fish. The floor in the church is covered with patchy and warped mosaics of birds and plants, and two Christmas trees sat by a door in the front. There were two beautiful icons there of Christ and Mary, bright with gold and lit by candles.
I sat there and listened to the rain starting to fall again- (it took me a while to realize I was out of dry clothes and didn’t have an umbrella). I just about fell out of my pew when a young monk rang the bell at the back of the church! The monks came in- one of which was the bald man who found me out in the darkness, though now dressed in his habit with sleeves so wide at the opening that they came down to his knees- and a group of German pilgrims came in and they chanted evening prayer- I followed along in English in my own breviary. Their harmonies were incredible and carried me away. A lot of other things sound more exciting on the pilgrimage, but when they sang the Our Father – I don’t think I’ll ever forget that.
That site started to be venerated even a year after the miracle of multiplication took place there! It’s the only miracle written about in all four Gospels. I imagine it is one that would have stuck in the mind of the people. Something they would tell their grandchildren about; "I was there!" Five-thousand men, plus the women and children not mentioned. That must have been about the entire population of the area. I wonder what became of the boy who talked to Andrew and gave his bread and fish away? Look how God took that small gift of the boy and- well, multiplied it! We just never know.
I need to find some socks to borrow- God bless, Pilgrims!
This was another busy pilgrimage day for us. Those who arose early enough were able to enjoy a beautiful sunrise over the Sea of Galilee. Mornings here are very peaceful, broken only by the sounds of birds and the lapping of water on the shore. It is no wonder that Jesus would prefer to have his ministry up here, even apart from other social concerns at the time.
After breakfast, we piled on the bus and headed for Mass at the Church of the Primacy of Peter. It is only a couple miles from where we are staying. It is a small church that marks the spot where, after His Resurrection, Jesus meets some of the Apostles on the shore of the Sea of Galilee. After a miraculous catch of fish, Peter leaps into the sea to come to Jesus. In this encounter, Peter is confirmed in his ministry as the head of the Apostles and visible head of the Church. Here, Ken Halbur gave a reflection on St. Peter, calling us to look at his zeal for following Christ. Though it often got him in trouble, he never hesitated to follow our Lord. It is that kind of faith that each of us is called to have.
From the Primacy of Peter we started heading north, deeper into Galilee. Our first stop was Hazor, an ancient city on the trade route between the Mesopotamia and Egypt. It was one of the largest Canaanite cities before it was burnt to the ground by Joshua. It is also the site where Sisara, a Canaanite general, was killed with a tent peg driven through his head, as recounted in the Book of Judges.
From Hazor we traveled into the Hula Valley, a rich fertile area in Galilee between two ranges of hills and mountains. In the past it used to be a swamp created by water from the Jordan that flows through here to the Sea of Galilee, but the swamp was drained leaving behind very fertile volcanic soil.
Located in this valley is Tel Dan, our next stop on the pilgrimage. Tel Dan is part nature preserve and part archaeological site. Through the area runs one of the three sources of the Jordan River, making it a very lush with vegetation. In the area, though, are the ruins of the city of Dan, built long ago by the tribe of Dan. Later, when the Kingdom of Israel split, it was in this city of Dan that Jeroboam set up one of the two golden calves for the people of Israel to worship, thus leading the people into sin. Ivan Moreno gave his reflection here on the split that happened in the people of Israel under King Rehoboam.
After the short hike through this area, we traveled by bus only a couple miles to Caesarea Philippi, now called Banias. This place is a massive cliff wall of solid rock with a large cave at the bottom. Near the foot of this cliff is another of the three sources of the Jordan River for water bubbles to the surface forming a natural spring. It is this natural flowing water that is so often referred to in the Bible as springs of living water. Caesarea Philippi was originally an area dedicated to the Greco-Roman god Pan, a god of shepherds and fertility. A few temples were built here in honor of this pagan god. It was also at this site that Christ proclaimed Peter to be the Rock on which Christ would build His Church. It has all that much more meaning when you see the massive rock of the cliff wall. That natural rock was dedicated to Pan, but Peter is the Rock of the Church, the foundation of the house against which winds and storms can blow and never destroy it. Matthew Nemchausky gave his reflection here on Caesarea Philippi.
This area is at the foot of the Golan Heights, a small piece of territory that Israel took from Syria in 1967. From Caesarea Philippi we traveled up into the Golan Heights, coming within less than a stones throw away from the borders with Syria and Lebanon. At the north end of the Golan Heights are a few villages of a people called the Druze. Little is known of them, though they claim to trace their faith back to Jethro, the priest of Midian and the father-in-law of Moses. We ate lunch in one of their villages that is in the foothills of Mount Hermon, the highest mountain in all Israel, Syria, and Lebanon. It has three peaks, ranging from about 7000 to over 9000 feet above sea level. For lunch we had a unique dish prepared by the Druze: a type of bread like that used in crepe though stronger. The basic filling was plain yogurt and hyssop, which was delicious. For desert, you could also get it filled with chocolate, which was even more delicious. On the bus ride home Ben Hasse gave his reflection on Mt. Hermon, a special site for him and all the members of the Brotherhood of Bearded Seminarians.
Our last full day in Galilee saw some of us up at dawn to walk the shores of the lake. After a delicious Pilgerhaus breakfast, we headed up to the Mount of the Beatitudes just a few miles away to celebrate the Epiphany. Fr. Peter Damien, one of our professors and a renowned Scripture scholar, also celebrated his 42nd anniversary of priesthood!
Today was also the beginning of the Kindling Group’s filming here in Israel. They are working on a project, The Calling, with PBS that will appear in the fall of 2009. It follows Americans preparing for ministry from four groups: Catholics, Evangelical Protestants, Jews, and Muslims. They are following several men from Mundelein, including two on this trip. So, they filmed many of the events during the day.
Fr. Baima preached his last homily to us at Mass, as soon he will return to Mundelein to pick up his many responsibilities as Provost. Andrej gave a beautiful reflection, too, at the end of Mass, challenging us with a ringing question, "Are you weak enough to be a priest?" After a beautiful Mass in the Church of the Beatitudes, we had several hours to pray and enjoy the grounds and the beautiful view of the Sea of Galilee. By God’s grace, we had a clear sunny day. Our prayer was lifted up and inspired by the preaching, the surroundings, and the beauty and mystery of the Beatitudes.
Many of us decided to hike down to Pilgerhaus instead of taking the bus. It was good to stretch our legs, and to walk DOWN the hill! By several routes everyone was back for lunch, and after that, many went swimming in the Sea of Galilee again. It is cold this time of year, but also bracing and refreshing. We could see boats of tourists and pilgrims going by, and the beautiful green hills of Galilee in all directions. As the afternoon went on, it was beautiful to see the sun setting along the lake.
Finally, we closed the day with a salute and celebration for Fr. Baima and Fr. Peter Damien. We thanked and toasted Fr. Baima for his teaching and fellowship during the first half of the pilgrimage, and we congratulated Fr. Peter Damien for his 42 years of faithful priesthood. Both made encouraging and inspiring remarks. Then we celebrated with a delicious meal. During the meal, the Three Kings arrived, thanks to the group of German pilgrims also staying at Pilgerhaus. We sang an Epiphany hymn together in both German and English.
After dinner, the German pilgrims had adoration in the little chapel, to which they graciously invited us. Some us prayed, some of us packed, and others enjoyed our last night in Galilee. Tomorrow, Jerusalem!
Before breakfast this morning we celebrated Mass in the Meditation Room at Pilgerhaus. It was a tight fit but we made it work. There was a little excitement just before Mass was scheduled to start. The sacristy was locked and the last person who had used the key forgot to return it. After consultation with Father Baima the dining room provided leavened breaded and a glass of wine. The Mass kit that Tim Brandt has so dutifully carried had enough hosts that we were able to switch to unleavened bread. Father Peter Damian’s homily focused on the importance of knowing and experiencing Jesus as a friend who is always beside us and walking with us.
Following breakfast we packed the bus and headed for Belvoir Castle. Belvoir Castle is located in the Jordan Valley on a site where we were able see the pipeline that carries oil from Iraq. The castle was used for the Hospitaller Crusaders. The castle located atop a steep elevation hampered Saladin’s attempt to capture it. He was finally successful on his third attempt. A contributing factor to the crusaders surrendering was that they probably were or had run out of food and water.
Next we headed to Jericho where we had lunch at the Temptation’s all you can eat buffet. We stopped here earlier in the pilgrimage when we visited the Greek Monastery located on top of the Mount of Temptation. Before visiting the Tel Jericho, Maggie, who is one of the members of the Kindling Group filming Greg Michaud and Ben Hasse during their pilgrimage, rode Sammy the camel. Joe Altenhofen and Michael Burt also partook of a camel ride.
We arrived at Notre Dame Center at about 4:00 p.m., collected the luggage we had dropped off before departing for Upper Galilee and got settled in our rooms. Shortly after eating dinner at 7:00 p.m. most of us went to bed in preparation for making the Stations of the Cross on the Via Dolorosa scheduled for 5:00 a.m. on Tuesday.
4:30 a.m. we rose and walked the
Way of the Cross- the road where the Roman soldiers led Jesus to His death on
Mt. Calvary. Still dark and we made due with a few flashlights. Walking the
narrow way we could make out a strip of sky high above between buildings and
arches, past overhanging shop-awnings and signs. It was raining for most the
time however, and our eyes were mostly watching our footing on the uneven stone
pavement for unpredictable steps and puddles. Each station is indicated in stone
on the walls and we stopped briefly at each spot. Where Jesus fell. Where he was
tortured and scourged. Where Veronica wiped his face. Where he met his mother.
Across a courtyard and through a door we entered the Church of the Holy
Sepulcher- to the right is a steep irregular stairway which brings one to the
top of Mount Calvary (which isn't a mountain at all, and fits entirely within
the massive structure of the Church.) The crucifixion would have been
immediately outside the city gates and close enough to be quite visible to
anyone going in or out; as a policy the Romans sought to strike terror and
demonstrate what happened to anyone who rebelled their occupation. We each in
turn kissed the spot where Jesus' cross had stood, marked underneath an altar.
The floor and step of the sanctuary surrounding the altar are made of glass, so
you can see the bare rock there and the shape of the cliff's edge. Together with
this and a life-size painting of Christ crucified where He actually was, one can
easily imagine the scene as it happened: stripping away like a transparent
overlay the hanging oil lamps, the mosaics and burning candles, the designs on
the marble floors, the crumbling forest of pillars and balcony railings,
oneself. Under Calvary is a chapel with a window, and the rock is lit up so one
can see the split in the earth directly beneath the cross, caused by the
earthquake which immediately followed Jesus' death. It is said that Adam's skull
lay there (hence "Golgotha"; Place of the Skull)
Through our feet we felt an organ somewhere yawn open, and a single voiced choir
began a chant which sounded far-away and everywhere. The stone where Jesus' body
was hastily prepared and anointed for burial lies there. Here was where it
really hit me, this detail one doesn't think of. Here Nicodemus had carried one
hundred pounds of spices. Here Mary Magdalene and John remained. Here Mary held
the corpse of her dead son. They could still see the two thieves struggling and
gasping on the crag- they'd all been shaken by the earthquake and the sun was
hiding. A blur of duty with shaking hands before full darkness came and the
Sabbath began.
Tomorrow morning (in four and a half hours) we go back to the Church of the Holy
Sepulcher to celebrate Mass in the Tomb where Jesus rose.
This was another early day for us. We had Mass in the Holy Sepulcher, and this means not just in the large church itself, but in the very place where Christ was buried. Over the years, the cave in which Our Lord was buried has been changed, leaving behind the rock on which he was laid and very little more. Over this has been built a beautifully ornate shrine. Its size, though, does make it feel like a small burial cave within the much larger mountain of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.
Because the shrine is so small, we split into two groups for Mass so everyone could fit inside. The first Mass was at 5:30 in the morning, over which Fr. Dan presided, and the second Mass was immediately following at six with Fr. Peter Damian. It is hard to describe what an awesome experience it is to celebrate Mass on this most holy of places. Here Christ’s corpse was laid to rest after dying for our salvation; here He was resurrected, leaving behind this empty tomb. His death and resurrection, indeed the whole of the Paschal Mystery, is the center of our life of faith, the center of the Mass that we celebrated there.
It is truly amazing how things come alive when you visit places like this. Every one of us has heard many times over the story of the empty tomb, and the witness given by Mary Magdalene and the Apostles. In their own right they are very powerful stories, but they come to mean so much more when you can actually see the empty tomb. He is no longer there. He is truly risen!
In the afternoon, we were supposed to have a speaker deliver a talk on Israeli-Jewish Identity and Life. However, due to the travel problems in Jerusalem because of President Bush’s visit, he was not able to make it. However, a Christian scholar who has lived in Jerusalem for many years came and gave us some of her experiences of and insights into life in Israel. It was a good first experience of what life in Israel is like. For the past few weeks we have been steeped in the life and experience of Palestinians, and it we are now beginning to see, hear, and experience the other side of the picture. It is indeed a very complex picture. Hopefully, the minds and hearts and all of us remain open to the coming experiences of Israeli and Jewish life so that we won’t be too quick to judge a people we know little about.
The Christmas season is nearly at an end! Today, we spent our third day in Jerusalem, but the first day without a very early Mass! After being up by 5:00 am or earlier on Tuesday and Wednesday, everyone rejoiced in having nothing before 7:30 am breakfast! And… what a breakfast! They feed us dangerously well here at the Notre Dame Center (NDC). In particular, they have filtered American-style coffee which many brothers have been longing for!
We celebrated Morning Prayer in community in the chapel here, which is huge and simple, with a beautiful statue of the Blessed Mother holding the Baby Jesus. It is actually a cathedral, the seat of the Apostolic Delegate. Since the NDC is the seat of the Apostolic Delegate, it has extraterritorial status like an embassy. As one of our professors said: "First of all, don’t get in trouble. But, if you do, get inside the gates here quick!"
There is a lot of security around because this is President Bush’s second day here. All over it is easy to see the police in blue and the IDF (Israeli Defense Force) in green. So far it as been pretty quiet.
Mid-morning we headed over to St. Anne’s Church just north of the Temple Mount on the east side of the Old City. One of the Missionaries of Africa (the "White Fathers") gave us a very interesting talk on the Jerusalem Churches. He didn’t speak about brick and mortar, but rather the many different Christian churches in Jerusalem. There are 13 different communities that have bishops here, and several other smaller communities. Among them are 6 Catholic hierarchs, 5 Orthodox, the Anglican bishop, and the Lutheran bishop! As you can well imagine, they don’t always all get along. Nonetheless, there are some signs of hope. As a fruit of the ecumenical movement, they all meet several times a year to address pastoral issues in common, and often issue pastoral statements. The priest there also spoke about the complicated relationships between Jews, Arab Christians, and Arab Muslims both in Israel and in the Palestinian Territories.
After the talk we had Mass in St. Anne’s Church, which is one of the places that is venerated as the sight of Mary’s birth and the home of Saints Anne and Joachim. There are complicated multi-level ruins in the compound that include the Pools of Bethesda, where Jesus healed, and Byzantine-era church built on top of those ruins. As in most parts of Jerusalem, there seems to be a healthy population of (stray?) local cats. Strangely, it is hard to see any dogs, much less a stray one.
Then, after lunch, we had our first round of classes. Now we have Gospel of Matthew with Fr. McIlhone and History of Israel with Fr. Akpunonu. Those finished just a little before dinner! So, it was a very full day, but also one of our first days back on a more regular schedule.
Jerusalem is so much bigger, busier, and more complicated than most of the places we’ve been. While in Bethlehem the focus of our spiritual energies was basically one place, the Church of the Nativity, here there are a dozen different places. It sure is a blessing to have a whole month here!
Today our schedule was similar to that during our time in Bethlehem. After breakfast we celebrated Morning Prayer as a community. In the morning we had the second day of the two classes we will be having here in Jerusalem. The first period from 9:00 to 10:30 a.m. is on the Gospel of Matthew with Fr McIlhone. After a fifteen minute break we had our class on the History of Israel with Fr Peter Damian. In the afternoon we had our reflection groups where we share with one another what the central theme has been over the past few weeks, where the Spirit has been moving in and leading us and any blocks or struggles we have encountered. It was really good to take some time and share and reflect on what we’ve been experiencing.
Some of us visited the Western Wall at sundown to witness the beginning of Shabbat (the Sabbath). It was enlightening to observe how the Jewish people celebrate their Sabbath. We will have four more opportunities during our time here in Jerusalem to return to the Western Wall for the beginning of Shabbat.
It is hard to believe that one month from today we all will be getting on a plane. Some will be doing extended travel to visit places like Rome, Jordan and Poland. Others will return to Mundelein when our pilgrimage ends. Greg Michaud made an interesting observation today. He said that although the pilgrimage will officially end in four weeks we will continue experience the effects of the pilgrimage in the days, weeks and months that follow our return to the United States.
Today was another typical day for us. In the morning we had classes, and in the afternoon we had a presentation on the Dead Sea Scrolls by one of the leading researchers on the scrolls. It was a long presentation, with a lot of the talk focusing around how, when, and where the scrolls were found. It helped all of us to truly realize how complex this issue is and how grateful we need to be that there are experts who are spending their time opening up the riches of these finds to us.