Today was a very busy day. We had our Ecumenism and Spirituality of the Pilgrim class in the morning. In the afternoon we had a reading of the Qur’an by a Jesuit priest and two of our classmates. As I was listening I wondered how close our experience was to that of the Benedictines when someone would read a book on spirituality or the Holy Scriptures during their meal in the refectory.
The class schedule has been a little intense because we will away from our home here at Betharram for a two day trips to visit sites near Nazareth. All of us are looking forward to visiting the Church of the Annunciation, Cana where Jesus performed his first miracle by changing water into wine. I will let my brother journalists provide the details of our experiences on the road.
Classes on a Saturday today! We’re squeezing them in so we have more time to explore in Nazareth (we leave early tomorrow morning). The choir practiced for two hours today in preparation for midnight mass on Christmas Eve! We had supper on our own tonight. Most of us ended up going to a nearby café which has American Food and better Internet Connection! It’s a little piece of home, and a good place to do our homework that gets us out of the house. Some of us walked around the city, and on "Star Street"-where there was a stage set up in a little plaza for a Christmas concert. In Manger Square, between the Mosque of Omar and the Church of the Nativity, there were people milling about under the strings of Christmas lights.
This morning we left Bethlehem for three day trip to Galilee, centering around Nazareth. We picked up our guide in Jerusalem, and proceeded North. The only main highway open for us to use at this time takes on first on a northwest angle. This means we descended from the hills into the coastal plain, which is a much more fertile region of the land. This a marked difference between the green fields of this area and the land around Bethlehem, which is on the edge of the Judean wilderness.
While still on the coastal plain we picked up a new highway that is being built from the north end of Israel to the south. This took us to the Jezreel Valley, the southern edge of which is guarded by Tel Megiddo, the hill of Megiddo. We visited this ancient site, which over the course of a few thousand years had twenty-five different cities built there. It stood on the major trade route of ancient times that stretched from Yemen in the south to Damascus in the north. It also looked out over the Jezreel Valley, one of the most fertile regions of Israel. Because it was such a strategic point for trade and agriculture, many different armies have conquered and resettled the hill of Megiddo. This violent history has made it symbolic of the final battle that is referenced in St. John’s Book of Revelation, the Battle of Armageddon, the battle at the hill of Megiddo. Apart from it’s biblical significance, it is also important archaeologically because it provides a vivid example of the layering of ancient cities, one being built on the ruins of another. With twenty-five different cities being built here, it is a wealth of archaeological data.
From Megiddo we finished our trip to Nazareth, which is on the hills at the northern side of the Jezreel Valley. We were not able to enter the Orthodox Church of the Annunciation because there was a funeral taking place. The Orthodox tradition is that Mary encountered the angel at the spring in the village when she was there getting water. This spring still produces water to this day.
Before going to the Basilica of the Annunciation, we stopped at the Sisters of Nazareth to drop off our luggage. This house has many great things about it, but the one I think most of us, if not all, appreciated was the fact that there was plenty of hot water, with good pressure, and showerheads that let the whole body get soaked. It is the little things in life, like a hot shower, that really make the difference.
The Basilica of the Annunciation is a massive structure. In the courtyard area outside the Church are many different murals of Our Lady from around the world. They represent the various national representations or devotions of several countries, many of them very, very beautiful. There are several more murals inside the main church, which is where the "thing" from the United States hangs. To be quite honest, pretty much everyone was ashamed of the image given by the United States. It was supposed to represent Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, but she had several nicknames among the seminarians: Our Lady of Tin Foil, Our Lady of Reynolds Wrap, Our Lady of Alcoa, and some others. In short, she was hideous; a testament to the artistic genious of the 1960s in the United States.
Before we entered the Basilica, we had a short introduction to the place by our guide. During his talk, a piece of rock fell from the wall of the Basilica and landed only a foot or two from one of the men. No one was hurt, but we took it as a sign that we should move. Inside, the Basilica is split into two levels. The upper level is the main church area, where the local parish would have its regular masses. This is where the rest of the murals are. The lower level is where Mary’s house is. The Catholic Tradition is that Mary encountered the Angel Gabriel in her home. It is a small stone structure, and it is well preserved. Currently, though, it is gated off from pilgrims because too many people have been taking stones and pieces of rock from the house, so a study is being done on the structure. It is sad that in their pietistic fervor people are not thinking about those who will be coming after them to visit these sites.
We had our Mass for the day in the lower chapel, just outside Mary’s house. We celebrated the Mass of the Annunciation, much to Fr. Baima’s joy because this meant he got to wear white instead of rose. His homily, reminiscent of St. Jerome and some other writers, was a good reminder for us on pilgrimage. Our faith is an historical faith, one that is founded on events that really happened. Not only did they happen in time, but they happened in place, and that place is "here". This is the land where the work of our salvation first took place. Nor is this just about the land in general, but these saving events happened in specific places and we are seeing and touching those very places. It was a tremendous reminder us of what it is we are really about.
Just outside the Basilica is another church, which tradition says is built on the site of Joseph’s workshop. In the lower level of the church are the remains of an earlier church, most especially the ruins of an ancient baptistery.
In the Basilica, after the evening Mass, there are three hours set aside for quiet prayer in front of the Our Lady’s home. A few of us were down there right after Mass to pray at this holy site. While we were praying, one of the Franciscan friars was cleaning up after Mass, and he opened up grotto in order to remove some dying flowers. One of our brothers, Joe Altenhofen by name, hurried down there and asked the friar to let us in while the gate was unlocked. The friar was gracious enough to grant us this great privilege, to pray in the house, in the very place where the Angel Gabriel announced to Mary that she would be the Mother of God. It was a powerful experience for all of us who were able to enter and pray there. This is definitely one of the highlights of this pilgrimage.
One of the richest days yet on the pilgrimage… we visited some of the places where the key moments of Jesus’ ministry occurred: Nain, where Jesus raised the widow’s son from the dead; Mount Tabor, where Jesus was transfigured before Peter, James, and John; and Cana, where Jesus performed His first miracle, changing the water into wine. And, at the end of the day, we were back in Nazareth, where we started, the place Jesus grew up.
We started with breakfast at the pilgrim hostel run by the Religious of Nazareth, a small congregation of women founded in France in the 1830’s. The bus took us first across the Jezreel valley to Nain, a town that is now entirely Muslim. A small simple church commemorates the moment when Jesus raised the widow’s only son from the dead as he encountered the funeral procession. This was certainly a prefiguring of His own definitive resurrection from the dead. The family that takes care of the church opened it for us and we prayed there briefly, listening to the Gospel reading of the Raising of the Widow's Son
Next, we went back across the valley to Mount Tabor, which we had first seen the day before from Tel Megiddo. It’s slopes are largely covered in open pine forest. This part of the Holy Land is clearly wetter and more fertile than the hill country of Judea. We had to switch into smaller mini-busses to complete the ride up the narrow roads to the top. There we found a complex run by the ever-faithful Franciscans, keeping the sites for pilgrims and the Church.
Our schedule wisely allowed for a morning of prayer in this peaceful and beautiful place where Jesus was transfigured before Peter, James, and John. Like Peter, many of us would have liked to pitch tents and stay! After a reading, reflection, and comments by our guide, we had over an hour to just soak in the place. Our Pastor-in-Residence heard confessions, some walked, some prayed in the church, others found a peaceful spot in the sun to think, pray the breviary, or read from the Bible. The view was fascinating and captivating, encompassing the fertile and green Jezreel valley to the south and west, and giving a tempting glimpse of snow-covered Mount Hermon to the north and east.
Soon it was time for Mass. We gathered in the lower level of the church. There the walls are covered in a beautiful mosaic depicting four revelations of Christ: the newborn Christ-child, the Eucharist at the Last Supper, the Sacrificial Lamb, and the Empty Tomb. Each one was flanked by three angels, pointing indirectly to the Holy Trinity. At the end was a beautiful stained-glass window depicting a colorful peacock, and ancient symbol of immortality.
After Mass we had a hearty lunch in the Franciscan compound. About half the group decided to hike down the mountain to where our tour bus awaited us. Some followed the road, but after a few switchbacks, the chance to bushwhack through the trees proved too tempting. Soon we were jumping and scrambling through the pines, in amongst wild violets and crocuses, and the occasional patch of olive trees. Finally, muddier and sweatier, but also grinning, we arrived at the bottom, just in time to meet the rest of the group and continue along.
We drove through some hillier but still fertile country, covering two sides of a triangle as we moved back towards Nazareth. Only a few miles from there, we stopped in Cana to visit the parish church which also commemorates Jesus’ first miracle at the wedding feast, turning the water into wine. It turns out that the Franciscan priest from Syria who is currently the pastor there celebrated our guide’s wedding! He didn’t speak any English, but he was able to share a great deal about the challenges the Christians face in Cana with our guide as interpreter. His hand gestures alone would have communicated a lot even without the interpretation! He took us down into the excavations under the church which show an old inscription in Aramaic, and a huge stone water jar, possibly one of those used by Christ. After many bought the necessary Cana wedding wine, we went up over the ridge back to Nazareth.
It would seem that this had been more than enough to ponder, but that evening on of the sisters from the hostel showed us the excavations under the building. They bought the land in 1857 when the arrived in Nazareth, not knowing there were ruins underneath. Right when they were about to sell the land, looking for a bigger better site for a school, they discovered extensive and important ruins underneath. There are Crusader, Byzantine, and 1st century A.D. remains, including a house that may have been Joseph’s! Although this is only conjectural, the fact that this house was certainly in use in Jesus’ time in the tiny village of Nazareth means it is very likely that he at least ran past it and maybe through the same doorway we walked through. Unexpectedly, at the end of the day, we had one of our closest encounters with the Lord!
Following a wonder breakfast provided by the Sisters of Nazareth we left Nazareth to drive through the Jordan Valley for visits to Jericho, the Mount of Temptation and Bet She’an. Bet She’an is where King Saul's body was hung on the walls after he was killed. The settlement first began in the first millennium BC on the Tel rising to the south of the Harod River. It is located in a fertile area which had an abundance of water and was also located on a major crossroads.
Next we drove to Jericho and celebrated Mass at a Catholic Church with a parish school. Some of the soccer aficionado pilgrims challenged the school children to a soccer game. The school children are skilled soccer players and gave our brothers a run for their money. After communion Chris Martel gave a reflection on the Gospel passage describing Zaccheus’s encounter with Jesus. He invited us as pilgrims to climb the tree in order to see and experience more fully who Jesus is and then follow Him more closely with the crowd. Before leaving for lunch at the foot of the Mount of Temptation a few people shot some hoops to release some of the pent up energy that accumulates while riding the bus for extended periods of time.
Before riding the cable cars up to the Mount of Temptation many people took advantage of the opportunity to ride a camel for 20 shekels. Sister Kathleen rode a camel for the first time today. Way to go Sister!! We also had the opportunity to meet our guide’s family. His girls are age 3 and 6, and they seemed to have a good time on the camel once it got up and moving.
We were able to visit the Greek Orthodox Monastery on the Mount of Temptation. Before the hike up the mountain, Andrew Smith offered a power reflection on the meaning Jesus’ temptations has in our lives as we prepare for priesthood. Our group was fortunate because the last two times our guide brought a group the one monk who lives in the monastery was away. The icons in the monastery were beautiful. The visit was well worth the 200+ steps up the side of the mountain.
Another choir practice this morning, and a much needed free day after our jam-packed schedule these last few days!
A nearby convent invited us over to watch a film on one of their sisters who is now beatified. She had an incredible, miraculous life. Mariam of Jesus Crucified was a Sister of St. Joseph, and then became a Carmelite. There was a little museum with some of the things she used- a prayer book, glasses, a page with her religious vows written in French (she had shaky hand-writing and was mostly illiterate). Her cloak was there hanging on the wall, not behind a glass case or anything. There was also a cloth with her blood on it (she was a stigmatist), and some of the blood formed in the shape of a cross. The sisters there gave us beautiful little holy cards, and a bookmark showing the baby Jesus next to this saying (which I suppose was an insight she received in prayer): "I am happy in a lowly soul, in a crib."
Think of Jesus laying in a manger- a snug little food trough (we saw some ancient ones the other day in Megiddo). If he would empty Himself to even this point surely He will enter our hearts this Christmas! He comes to us in paten and chalice to rest in the mangers of our poor hearts. "I am happy in a lowly soul, in a crib!"
It was a day of catching up on rest, and getting ready for Christmas. We bought a guitar for our group to use for the last six weeks of pilgrimage (as we’ve been borrowing the one we’ve been using here from the sisters). Then when we leave for good we’ll leave it here for next year’s group to use. Also for Christmas, since we’re in charge of entertainment at several functions to come, there is the mysterious project taking place of a donkey head being constructed of chicken wire and paper mache (I think for a skit). More to come on that as developments arise.
Today ended up being a rather low-key day. We had both the spirituality class and the ecumenism class in the morning, followed by Mass before lunch. At Mass we heard for the fourth time this pilgrimage we heard the story of the Annunciation from the Gospel of Luke, on which Fr. McIlhone preached. He tied Mary’s fiat to our future ordinations and lives as priests. Just as the Blessed Virgin said yes to all the joys and sorrows of being the Mother of the Messiah, so we ought to say yes to all the joys and sorrows of priestly life. He really brought out for us how Mary is a model for our lives as priests.
In the afternoon we were so supposed to have a lecture by a local priest on Catholic-Muslim Relations, but he was not able to make it. It was rescheduled for the following afternoon. This left the afternoon open for us to read, pray, or walk around Bethlehem. Only a few were out and about because the weather the past couple days has been overcast and wet. Hopefully it will clear up for the Christmas celebrations next week, though they do need the rain.
After supper, there was a Christmas present wrapping party for the presents for the orphans we will be visiting in a couple days. Each of us was to buy three presents for the children because there over ninety children at this orphanage. It was a wild time watching some of the men trying to wrap presents. You could definitely tell who had wrapped presents before and who had not.
Christmas is getting closer! In some ways I have to keep pinching myself, "Am I really in Bethlehem as the feast of our Lord’s birth approaches?" I suspect I am not alone in this.
Today was in some respects fairly routine. Classes in the morning, then a presenter after lunch. This was quite interesting. Our speaker teaches locally. He spoke on Christian-Muslim relations in the area. One of his main themes was that the Christians really see themselves primarily as part of the larger group, Palestinians. He largely denied that persecution of them by the Muslims was a main issue, rather, the shared situation of occupation, unrest, and lack of the rule of law was what causes their suffering. In any case, it is clear, that all would benefit from peace: Christians, Muslims and Jews.
He also explored the challenge of teaching classes to a mixed classroom of Christians and Muslims. Both learn about Christianity and Islam. He shared a little the challenge of formulating Christian doctrines in Arabic in such a fashion that they are accessible or intelligible to the students. He also spoke of the enrichment that both faiths bring to one another.
The distinctive groups here that are often lumped together are coming more and more into focus. In Bethlehem, most people are Arabs, who may be Muslim or Christian. They speak and worship, by and large, in Arabic. In both religions there are any number of subdivisions. Most Muslims here are Sunni, but even within that group there are a variety of schools of interpretation of Qu’ranic law. Many of the Christians are Orthodox, but that may be in one of several groups, for example: Syrian, Greek, or Armenian. Many are Latin Catholics, but the Melkite Catholics are also in union with the Pope while worshiping in the Byzantine rite, in Arabic. There is a Lutheran church with a small local congregation. Certainly there are other groups that I have not mentioned, even just here in Bethlehem. And, you have pilgrims from every land!
Preparations continue for Christmas! Tonight the donkey head was nearly all finished up – eyes, ears, etc. The Choir has been practicing for Midnight Mass. And, tomorrow, we’ll be visiting the Crèche orphanage to put on a little Christmas show and distribute gifts.
Come Lord Jesus!
The highlight of today was the Christmas Party at the Crèche. The Crèche is an orphanage here in Bethlehem that cares for children from newborn to five years of age. The children live at the Crèche for many reasons. Some have been abandoned, others have been abused or their parents just were not able to care for them because of the extreme poverty and unemployment in this area.
Entertainment was provided alternating between the children and the seminarians. It was clear that there is a large amount of talent among the children. They sang, danced and were dressed in clothing associated with their family heritage. Matt Nathan provided a wonderful mime act using two of the children in the audience. It is hard to decide who the bigger hit of the party was. Some would say it was Santa while others would say it was the Christmas donkey. Ben Hasse served as the owner of the Christmas donkey comprised of Lionel Lopez in the front and Ben Arrevalos in the back. Ben really exhibited some extraordinary foot work when there was talk that Santa, Matt Nemchausky should ride the donkey.
Following the show we went into different rooms to await Santa’s arrival with gifts for the children. Something that struck me profoundly was the strong need some of the children had to be held. In a sense they had a hunger for affection which needed to be met by being held. I had the opportunity to visit the nursery which had a newborn that was only 5 days old. He was so small and precious. I will never forget the incredible experience I had today at the Crèche.
Today we had our day of prayer in preparation for Christmas. After exposition of the Blessed Sacrament and mid-day prayer Andrew S. gave a reflection in our chapel. We drew names of other people in the community that we would pray for and then had silence, confessions, and adoration for the rest of the afternoon; most of us scattering throughout the grounds. Our choir had to leave at 4:00 in order to practice with Sister P’s choir at Bethlehem University for the Christmas Eve mass. Benediction and Evening Prayer at 6:00, then supper and later on we watched "The Christmas Carol" in our classroom upstairs. We’re all excited for Christmas here in Bethlehem! Hope you are doing well back home.
C
hristmas Eve in Bethlehem is a sight to be seen. This city comes alive with pilgrims from around the world coming to visit the place of Our Lord’s birth. Our morning was free, which gave some the opportunity to sleep longer in preparation for the late night. For others, it was time to see this small city come alive.Manger Square, which is right in front of the Church of the Nativity, was crawling with people, and movement was made more difficult by the presence of Palestinian Police and various barriers to direct the flow of traffic. I doubt I will ever spend Christmas Eve in the presence of so many AK-47s ever again. This was necessary because a parade would be coming through early in the afternoon, leading the Latin Patriarch to the Church of the Nativity. It was an exciting time just seeing all the men and women from around the world coming to pray here in Bethlehem. People crowded everywhere, and it was virtually impossible to move against the press of people. In the early evening the Patriarch celebrated Solemn Vespers with the Franciscans the faithful who could fit into St. Catherine’s.
Our community held its own celebrations beginning at 9:30 p.m. with the Office of Readings. Because it was the eve of such a great feast, we pulled out all the stops and had a wonderful prayer with extra psalms, canticles, readings, and a homily by Fr. Baima. Afterwards, some had to hurry to Bethlehem University, where we celebrated Midnight Mass with the staff and faculty of the university. Ten of the seminarians sang with the university choir, and blending of the mixed choirs was beautiful. After some more practice, carols started at 11:30 and went to midnight. Carols consisted of various English and Arabic carols, of which most of the choir was able to learn some part. At midnight, Mass began with Fr. Baima as the main celebrant. Mundelein seminarians sat in the sanctuary and the mass was served by seminarians from the local seminary, whom we had met a couple weeks ago. The Nuncio was supposed to celebrate the Mass, but he chose to attend Mass with the Patriarch, who will be retiring in a few months.
Mass was a beautiful mix of English and Arabic. After this joyous celebration, there was a reception in a hall at the university, where the seminarians provided some entertainment (songs and the Christmas Donkey). The wine was flowing, the food was good, and the company was enjoyable. It was a good time to sit back and just enjoy the festivities. Christmas had finally come and we were in Bethlehem where it all happened. Eventually the party broke up about 3 a.m.; some went home and to bed, while others went to the Church of the Nativity, which was open all night, with Masses beginning in the grotto every forty-five minutes or so. It was a truly blessed time to be here.
Truly, it is an honor to share the experience of the group on this day, the pinnacle and long-awaited goal of our first month here in the Holy Land: Christmas Day, the celebration of our Good Lord’s coming as a poor and humble child on that night so long ago.
"Glory to God in the Highest, and Peace to His People on Earth!"
As the angels first announced Christ’s birth in the night to the shepherds, our celebration really began in the middle of the night as well. The Midnight Mass at Bethlehem University, unlike so many "Midnight Masses" in the U.S., actually began at 12:00 am! We gathered with the faculty and staff and guests of the University in their beautiful chapel. Some of the seminarians sung with their choir, led by the redoubtable and courageous Sr. Patricia, who even succeeded in teaching the Holy Land wing of the Mundelein Schola to sing along in Arabic to the Our Father and to a popular Christmas hymn, "Leil la tel mi lad" – that is, "The Night of Christmas" Our very own Fr. Baima was the principal celebrant and homilist. Normally it is the apostolic delegate, but he was at St. Catherine’s Church with the Patriarch, who celebrated his 20th and last Midnight Mass as patriarch. Soon Patriarch Michel Sabbah will retire from this arduous and complicated position.
After the Mass there was a nice reception with food and fellowship, and some somewhat ineffective attempts by the seminarians to entertain. Apparently this arose last year quite spontaneously… this year our attempt to plan spontaneity was not quite successful. There was some singing, and our very own Christmas Donkey, Felimón, made an appearance with Tien Tran riding on his back! As the reception finished around 3:00 am, some went straight to Manger Square to spend the remaining hours of the night in vigil and celebration, while others hit the sack.
Christmas Day was quite relaxed. We were free to choose which Mass we went to, if we wanted, as we had already celebrated our Christmas Mass in the early hours of the morning. Some went to the Patriarch’s 10:00 am Mass at St. Catherine’s, others attended one of the nearly continuous pilgrim Masses at the Manger down in the Cave of the Nativity. Many were in and around the church praying, along with 1000’s of pilgrims from every land and people. Seeing the crowds really made me realize the true gift it is to spend over a month here, with many chances to linger in the Church and Cave, unhurried and un-crowded.
At 2:00 pm we all met at LaTerrasse Restaurant for a lovely Christmas Dinner. Everyone was in high spirits. The food was delicious and abundant, and there was even live music: a guitar and lute duo. It wasn’t until nearly two hours later that the group began to disperse! Many returned to the Nativity and Manger Square where the celebration of Our Lord’s Birth was ongoing. Others sought some much needed rest after a long night and morning. Many were testing out new phone cards to call home.
After adoration and solemn evening prayer in the Betharram Chapel, our home, we had a Christmas party, culminating in the White Elephant gift exchange, using the St. Joseph College Seminary rules. After over an hour of surprises, strategy, and possible conspiracy, some went home with the coveted walking camel, hookah, or olive-wood cross, while others had wafer cookies or a squeaky toy!
It was truly a joyful day, a great gift. I expect and hope that from now on, on Christmas Day, memories of this day here in Bethlehem will rise pleasantly and evocatively to mind.
Today we hosted a Christmas Party to thank the members of the Betharram Community, the Christian Brother’s from Bethlehem University, the Sisters who have cooked and done our laundry and for some of the presenters who have talked about the situation here in Bethlehem and what the relationship between the Muslims and the Christians is like.
After eating pizza and snacks entertainment was provided by the seminarians. The Christmas Donkey made its third appearance and as usual was a big hit. Many of my seminarian brothers possess a great deal of talent expressed musically through song and dance. The Betharram Community was impressed by the amount of talent the seminarians have.
The party was also an opportunity to say thank you individually and present a small token of our appreciation for the many ways our guests have blessed us over the last four weeks. It is hard to believe our time here in Bethlehem is rapidly coming to a close. Soon we will move to Notre Dame Center in Jerusalem for the remainder of our pilgrimage.
Christmas Eve was exciting-! The narrow streets were crowded under suspended strings of garlands and lights, and people hung from balconies and rooftops to watch the parade make its way to Manger Square. I came down through a narrow stairway and watched the parade pass by between buildings. I wanted to get to the Church of the Nativity before the Patriarch did so I could see him enter (or to see whatever it was that was going to happen, I wasn’t really sure), so I ran through adjacent streets and walkways- passing through the fruit market, down stairs and through alleyways, all to the music of bagpipes and drums the next street over! I managed to make it all the way up to the doorway of the Church, while confetti and fireworks were being shot off in the square, and I could see the high-twirling batons of the drum majors, the officers with their AK-47’s on top of the buildings, balloons being released, and the long line of monks waiting to greet the Patriarch. We were wearing our clerical shirts so that people would know that we were seminarians at mass that night (so I felt a bit older and very much like a priest as I wove through the crowds).
The choir had been practicing diligently with Sister P’s university choir these last few days- they even taught us a beautiful Christmas song in Arabic! We felt like part of the Christian community here in working with the students and getting to know them, and Sister P has a special place in our hearts now. We clapped and cheered after the last song 'Joy to the World.' After the reception (with caroling and a ‘Christmas Donkey’ of Ben Hasse’s invention) I walked outside and sat in the courtyard under the Christmas lights- through the trees the moon was full. 2:30 in the morning. I wondered what time Mary and Joseph came into Bethlehem? Was Mary already having birth pangs when they were turned out into the cold by the innkeepers? Walking the streets I realized how quiet it is in Bethlehem at night, even now (though maybe that’s because Palestinian officers aren’t allowed in the streets past a certain time). How still we see thee lie. They would have had to wake people up- and how cruel- the only hospitality they could find was for someone to let them stay in their stable with the animals. Can you imagine how Joseph must have felt? I tried to imagine the shepherds in their field and the angels breaking through the sky. The other day we went to a Bedouin orphanage and I held an abandoned baby that was only five days old- his little hands gripped onto my finger and I thought of how small Jesus became. Not like the Nativity Scenes where he looks like he’s three years old- but a newborn baby, wrapped up like a peanut or a papoose. The hope of the world! As I went to bed I thought of the Holy Family bundled up in the hay to sleep when the shepherds came.
Today outside of the Church of the Nativity the crowds whorled into a simple folk dance encircling a group of musicians singing Gloria’s and Alleluia’s- I joined in the celebration before meeting the rest of the seminarians for Christmas Dinner at a restaurant (where it was so crowded that one of us had to eat with his plate in his lap and I had to pretend to be left-handed). It was the first Christmas for many of us with no family- but be assured that you are held in our prayers here in this blessed place at this blessed time! Merry Christmas Pilgrims-!
Back to classes again today! Though eleven of us took the morning to go with Sr. Sophie to a Bedouin tribe's village in the desert. The Bedouins have historically been a sort of wandering tribe of shepherd-nomads, following the rains I imagine. The current situation however is such that the many well-guarded political boundaries no longer allow for such movement- together with that and other factors, this tribe has a relatively permanent settlement now. The ride itself was quite an experience, as you can imagine that the roads through the mountainous Judean desert are narrow and without guard rails! Sister speaks French, Arabic and Hebrew, so with much effort we deduced that she has been living and serving in the Holy Land for 18 years! We followed a medical van which goes to the village every Thursday, primarily in order to offer checkups to the pregnant women there (Sister told me that every woman in the village is pregnant).
The village was a hillside with scattered random dwellings: some concrete,
others tin, a few tents. The school was a low whitewashed building with beat up
chalkboards and smiling kids. We gave the students shoes from the back of our
van in a disorganized process, then handed out some candy. I noticed that some
of the smallest children were barefoot: two and three year olds walking on the
gravel, and very dirty! Obtaining tanks of water is a month-to-month kind of
situation for this village, so we took up a collection among ourselves and gave
it to Sister today when we got back. (enough for two years’ worth, I think)
We drove past Tekoa, the town
from which the prophet Amos came. Amos had been a shepherd, and preached about
social justice. He spoke about God’s anger at the sin of ‘trampling on the heads
of the poor’ like dust, and of denying justice to the oppressed. (Am 2:7)
This afternoon some of us went to the orphanage which is a counterpart to the
same ministry. We had gone there to put on a Christmas Party for the kids, and
we were glad to return. I was very impressed with the caring staff, but as you
can imagine these children don’t get very much one on one attention- and they’re
so young! There was even an abandoned baby there only 10 days old. I held a
little girl who was crying and she couldn’t have been more than two years old.
Most of the kids appeared energetic and happy- but this particular baby was very
weak and ill- she could barely hold her head up, and she had a very loose grip.
I think she may have had a muscular disorder of some kind. It was difficult to
visit for such a short time; I was able to hold that little girl and keep her
from crying, but only for an hour!
As we approach the end of our stay here in Bethlehem the days are given some more free time to visit the different sites and in prayer to integrate our experiences thus far. There was only one class, Ecumenism, which was missed by about ten of the men, the last group to visit the Bedouin communities. They had a much longer experience than the rest of the us because the community they visited could not be reached by car, so they had to leave the cars and hike out into the Judean Wilderness to reach the village.
In the afternoon, those of us who were not scheduled to spend time with the children at the Crèche orphanage had plenty of time to do school work, visit the holy sites, do shopping, or whatever else may have been on our agenda. The city in general seems to have settled back down to its normal operation, though the passage of pilgrims is still slightly higher than it was before Christmas.