Day 35:  Rome: classes

Today while many of you were enjoying days free from work, or only a partial day at work, we awakened much earlier than normal for a day of class.  Yippee!!!  Today from 9:00 until 12:15 we held class. 

Often I am left wondering how, at the beginning of this trip, I could call this a free European Vacation…  but I now realize it has been some of the hardest class work I have ever encountered.  Not because it is overly difficult, but it is difficult to get motivated to study while you are in the Eternal City.  Or who really wants to get up at 5:00 in the morning to visit rocks of old cities, so certifiably old rocks, for 4 hours, eat lunch, then drive 5 hours to see more newer old rocks the next day.  This happened in Turkey.  (Okay, slight exaggeration).  This really feels like a pilgrimage because I know that back in my room at the seminary, as messy as it is, that my heat works – sometimes so well that I have to open the windows and turn on the fans – but here in Rome I need hot water bottles, blankets, and a charcoal fire in order to be able to step on the ice rink, I mean marble floor in the morning.  I personally am finding that the computer room is my favorite place to be because the computers heat the room to just above freezing. 

All joking aside and in all seriousness we are safe, the food is nourishing, the atmosphere is outstanding, and we haven’t killed anyone, yet.  I think that we have probably accomplished something. 

Day 36:  Rome: the Catacombs, Basilicas, and the Holy Relics

Today we prepare for a day of churches and rocks.  Our first stop today is a drive down the old Appian Way, for those of you who are interested; the Appian Way connected Rome with France.  The Appian Way is also where all the rich of Rome wanted to be buried a long time ago because people walked the way frequently, and if your tomb was better than the Smithicus’s tomb next to yours, then they would talk about you and how wonderful you must have been… kind of like comparing Yugos with Cadillacs. 

A little musical history now: Ottorino Respighi, an Italian composer mostly known for his operas, wrote the first piece of music to be accepted as an orchestral piece which used a recorded sound.  The year was 1923 and the sound was the call of a nightingale, the name of the music The Pines of the Janiculum from the “Pines of Rome,” the second installation of his Roman Trilogy.  What does that have to do with any thing, well, I will tell you.  As we travel the Fourth Movement of this work The Pines of the Appian Way we come to the second movement and my favorite, The Pines of the Catacombs.  I suggest you check the piece out – it has my two thumbs up. 

Anywho, today we visit the Catacombs of Domatilla, these are supposed to be some of the oldest and largest that are in Rome, 13 km worth.  We arrive and are greeted by our guide for the morning who will guide us through the passages to see the many tombs, frescoes, and other various and assorted bits of antiquity.  As we enter, the first stop is the Basilica dedicated to Saints Nereus and Achilleus, two early Christian martyrs who were soldiers.  Named after the Christian Niece of the Christian persecutor Domitian, and left by Domatilla to her freed slave women whose name I have forgotten, and whose tombstone is in the entrance to the basilica.  We continue down and find that below the earth it is about 30 degrees warmer than on the surface.  We see some beautiful frescoes, and wonderfully carved marble tomb covers.  We celebrate Mass in a small chapel, and then head to one of our favorite spots as pilgrims: the gift shop to purchase postcards and books of pictures, as pictures are forbidden in the catacombs.

After this we continue our tour of the Major Basilicas of Rome.  We have two left: St. John Lateran, and St. Mary Major.  First St. John Lateran, possibly my favorite church that we have visited.  But before we entered the Church we visited the Passionist Parish across the street where the Santa Scala are located.  These 29 marble steps were the steps that Jesus walked up in the house of Pilate on Good Friday.  To protect the steps, they are now covered with walnut planking.  There are little glass windows in the steps above still-visible stains of blood from Christ, and it is one of the most important places of devotion in Rome. 

Now to St. John’s.  This is the Mother Church of Catholicism, it is the Cathedral Church of Rome and absolutely stunning.  The Church has been rebuilt several times over the centuries, and the current church retains only the Baldachin and the gilded statues of Peter and Paul encased within.  This “New Church” was designed by Bernini and although the Statues of the Twelve were designed by him, they were not executed by him.  I cannot speak as to how moving the Church is, however I will attempt to speak on the beauty that is the baptistery.  This is the one site that I wanted to see in visiting Rome, and now my trip feels complete.  I became enamored with the baptistery when I read the baptismal inscriptions that begin, to the best of my memory, “Caution ye who enters here, for the waters of this death raise to a new life, leaving behind the old, forsaken all that was and embracing all that is new.”  Of the many other inscriptions these are a few others; "No Barrier can divide where life unites: one faith, one fount, one spirit, makes one people."  “This is the fountain of life, which cleanses the whole world, taking its course from the wound of Christ".  This was my most touchable experience, and I guarantee, if you go to Rome and miss out on the baptistery of St. John Lateran, you are shorting yourself; the portal into our faith for centuries of Christians is probably the memory I will carry foremost from my pilgrimage here. 

After the Lateran, we traveled to St. Mary Major, the first Church dedicated to the Mother of God, and perhaps the best-preserved ancient church in Rome.  The Celestary, or the windows at the top, are all original, as is the Mosaic in the apse.  The disappointing part is that a baldachin was installed over the high altar, and it obscures the view of the mosaic of the Triumphal Christ Crowning His Mother in the Apse.  Contained under the main altar are two large pieces from the Crib of Jesus’ Birth.  Beautiful is really the only word that I can think to describe it… Again words cannot describe, and the pictures that I took really do no justice. 

Finally we were treated to an unexpected treat, Church of the Holy Cross of Jerusalem.  Even though Mass was being celebrated we were able to go to the side chapel, where there were two very large pieces of the Cross of Our Lord, a large portion of the inscription plaque (INRI), the finger of St. Thomas that probed the side of Jesus, several thorns from the crown, one of the nails, and a piece of the Pillar of the Scourging.  In the entrance to the Chapel was the cross bar from the cross of the Good Thief.  All of these precious relics brought back by St. Helena, the mother of Emperor Constantine.  It was so moving to know that just beyond the glass enclosure were pieces of this world that touched and held our Savior as He died.

Day 37:  Rome: classes

I have to tell you that after a full day yesterday, sleeping the rest of the afternoon and sleeping in this morning, I am ready for what ever comes my way: namely, class.  And that is really all that happened.  For those of you worried about Zach, we have decided to keep him.  Oh by the way, he is bald now… no, really, he shaved his head in order to save money on a haircut – never let anyone tell you seminarians are not frugal!

You are in our prayers, please remember us, and as always pray for the conversion of Turkey.  

Until next time Ciao… tonyn

Day 38:  Rome: classes

Hey there!  Glad to be back on the journal but the fact is that today there was nothing official scheduled.  So I considered just making stuff up.  Instead I think I will have to write mostly about what I did, well not just myself alone.  I got up bright and early and went on a little excursion with Joe, Angelo, and Bob.  Our hope was to attend a Mass said by Cardinal Ratzinger at the German College.  Yesterday we tried to get the inside track on this from the Swiss Guards near St. Peter’s.  The German College is also in the same location, just inside the Vatican.  Steve B., my boss on this journal job, was able to speak German to the guard and the indication was we should try today.  So we arrived down there for the 7:00 AM Mass.  The four of us found the college okay and going through two doors, we came upon their chapel.  As you may have guessed – no Cardinal Ratzinger.  However we did attend the Mass in German and that was pretty neat.  I think my niece Maria with her high school German would have understood more than I did though.  (Okay, that was a cheap way for me to get a family greeting in.)  We are suspicious, though, as to why Steve did not come with us since he was the one who spoke with the Swiss Guard.  I personally think he had breakfast with the Cardinal while leaving us in the lurch.

We had Fr. Mike’s parish liturgy class today.  The anxiously awaited case studies have begun.  (That would involve us giving presentations.)  Today we had Joe T., Brendan, Jose D., and Steve B.  In Fr. McIlhone’s Gospel of Mark we covered Mark 11:11-26, specifically the perplexing passage of Jesus cursing the fig tree.  We have a much better understanding of that event now.  Our readers will have to wait until we preach on it though!

For some reason Zach was dancing a lot today.  He claims it is because he is done with his papers, however it more likely has to do with the cold Casa air on his newly bald head. 

Bye for now and God bless. 

Patrick B

Editor’s note:  Ich habe mit zwei Soldaten der Schweiz gesprochen, und die Beiden sagten etwas anderes.  Zuerst sagte eins, “Ach ja, er ist hier jeden Tag,” und später der anderer “nür an Donnerstag” sagte.  Zum welchem sollten wir zuhören?  Wie Sie sehen könnten, mein Deutsch ist ein bißchen schwach, aber wir haben versucht, und das ist am wichtigsten, nicht wahr?  Also, Patrick und die anderen haben die Messe in dem deutshen Seminär gern.  

Day 39:  Rome: classes

Today was another day for afternoon classes with the morning free.  It is getting to the point where most of us are hustling to get papers done.  We have just about a week left in Rome so the push is on.

I went in with Dan, Steve, Joe, Angelo, and Bob for the Holy Father’s General Audience.  This was the third one we attended, the others being with the whole group.  John Paul’s reflection this week was on Psalm 116.  His words were of how, through prayer, all nations and peoples are invited to know the joy of the Lord.  He pours out upon us the fullness of His mercy.

It was nice to attend a third audience and to be reminded again of the Holy Father’s constancy to his vocation.  Can anyone doubt that the Lord speaks to him in a very intimate way in order to strengthen him.  Let us all pray for him and his continued leadership of the Church. 

Day 40:  Monte Cassino, Aquino

We had very special day trip today, leaving by bus at 8:30 for a two-hour trip to Monte Cassino, the cradle of western monasticism.  It was here that St. Benedict founded his order and monastery.  The monastery complex and the basilica, reached at the top of the mountain by way of winding road, are compelling for their beauty, history, and spiritual significance.  Benedict founded the monastery in the 5^th century, however it was destroyed four times: by Lombard barbarians, the Saracens, an earthquake, and, sadly, by the allied forces on February 15, 1944.  The Allies incorrectly believed the Germans to have been occupying it at the time.  (They were instead hiding behind it, not inside it.)  The bombings decimated Monte Casino.  Reconstruction began following the war and was completed in 1964.  The basilica was restored to the actual designs that it originally had.  At the re-consecration of the basilica in 1964, St. Benedict was declared one of the Patrons of Europe.  Some of the most beautiful art in the basilica are the paintings, several of which were still being completed through the 1980’s.  These include those on the inside of the dome and on the supporting arches.  These works, unlike any of the church art we have seen elsewhere, possess an ethereal, dreamlike quality.  Behind the main altar is where St. Benedict and his sister St. Scholastica are buried.  We had Mass in the crypt chapel. 

Following our visit to the monastery we took two unplanned detours.  First, we drove to the nearby cemetery for the Polish soldiers of World War II, easily visible from the monastery.  Marek Duran was able to translate for us some of the monuments there as well as offering a prayer in Polish.  The second detour was to the small village of Aquino, which, though not the birthplace of, was the boyhood home of St. Thomas of Aquinas.

News From The Bus-

Our Vietnamese brothers were supplying much of the fun on the way back to Rome.  First, we did some Scripture reading and of course Fr. Peter Damian sought out some volunteers for the always enjoyable sharing/reflection portion.  Hoang did a marvelous job on the mic, reminding us that all the rocks we’ve seen mean nothing without faith in Jesus.  Then he got us all stirred up with a group salute to “Vietnam! Hooray, Hooray! Vietnam! Hooray, Hooray!.”

A bit later after a pit stop, Khue broke out a hippy wig that he bought and had nearly every person on the bus model it for pictures.  I know Robert K. got some good shots so hopefully you will get to see them on our site.  Dan’s and Sr. Kathleen’s were classic.

Take care all.  We are thinking of you and wish you all well. 

Till next time, Patrick B

Day 41:  Rome:  A Day of Prayer

Today we took a respite from classes, touring, and sightseeing for a day of prayer and reflection.  The day officially began after breakfast with a morning session consisting of morning prayer from the Breviary and a talk from Fr. Mike, followed by an extended period of silence for reflection and prayer.  During the talk, Fr. Mike encouraged us to evaluate some fundamental aspects of our life in the context of our spiritual growth, especially as we may have seen it grow on the pilgrimage.  We reconvened for Mass at noon, followed by a quiet lunch during which we listened to a spiritual reading while we ate.  The afternoon session began with a talk encouraging us to look forward and contemplate how the gifts of this pilgrimage can enhance our priestly vocations.  Using an appropriate Pauline theme, Fr. Mike stressed how in our weaknesses God is strong, and how an awareness of our shortcomings can be turned into compassion for people as they grow in faith as we minister to them.  After some personal quiet time in the afternoon for prayer and reflection, our Day of Prayer closed in the evening with a prayer service that invited us to contemplate our priestly vocation. 

In terms of the spiritual benefits of the Day of Prayer, I can only speak for myself.  I enjoyed the day of quietness; it was a restful time of solitude with God.  Unlike the previous Day of Prayer (day 26), we were blessed with very pleasant weather, sunny and mild temperatures.  One of the highlights for me was praying the Rosary in the afternoon sun as I strolled around the grounds of the Casa.  The grounds aren’t very big, but there is  a grove of trees, within which is a grotto to Our Lady.  Only a few of the trees had just begun to bud, but it was still a beautiful place, and my Rosary walk outside was very refreshing. 

One other nice thing I thought I’d share: the property the Casa is on backs up against a school, so while I was outside, I found it very pleasant to hear the sound of children playing off in the distance.  (Throughout our stay here, several other people have made similar comments.)  It is an incomparably better sound than the high-pitched whiny buzz of the mopeds and motorcycles which swarm through the Roman streets like portly angst-ridden gnats.

Until next time, may the Holy Spirit refresh your heart and soul so that you may grow ever-closer to Christ Jesus our Lord --

 -- spb.

Day 42:  Rome:  classes

There isn’t anything terribly exciting to report from today, as we had a normal dose of classes in the morning, followed by Mass and lunch, with a free afternoon blessed with bright sunshine.  People mostly scattered in small groups doing various things.  Some went church-hopping, some went shopping for vestments or chalices, some stayed and some simply just went for a walk through the classical Roman streets and piazzas.  I was counted among that last group.  Our little band also sought out a little café in the Piazza Navone which serves up some of the most coveted gelato (Italian ice cream) in Rome.  Yummy!  It was remarkably easy to justify the ‘large’ size because of all the calories we burned off walking all over the city today.

News from the Casa – Anyone who’s ever been to Italy can tell you how much they love their espresso and cappuccino here.  The refectory (dining hall) in the Casa has a coffee machine which serves up some great cappuccino, but the chief problem we discovered early on was that there are not enough coffee cups to go around.  Out of necessity in the mornings, those of my desperate caffeine-craving comrades who arrived late to breakfast were forced to use a bowl to get their morning fix.  While not preferable and feeling somewhat silly drinking out of a bowl, sometimes we have to make do with whatever is available – we are on a pilgrimage after all, so there are always some sacrifices and compromises that have to be made for the good of all.

But soon an interesting discovery was made: if filled to the absolute brim, the standard Italian coffee cup could hold two servings, whereas the bowls could hold as many as three servings relatively easy.  After about a week, everyone was drinking coffee out of the bowls, and guys were disappointed if the bowls ran out and they had to resort to using the out-moded cups. 

Until next time, may the Lord fill your heart with a double-portion of His grace.  We remain, as always, mutually yours in prayer.

-- spb.