Day 8:  Antalya, Laodiciea, and Hieropolis

We began the pilgrimage’s eighth day in Antalya.  For the second morning, we awoke to the Mediterranean Sea.  After an early breakfast, we journeyed Northwest to Laodicea and Hierapolis. To reach this destination, we had to travel through the Toros mountains. There were goats, tall evergreens, apple orchards, and cotton fields. During the trip, Fr. McIlhone lectured on Laodicea’s history and biblical significance.  The city’s origin dates back to the third century BC.  Supposedly, Antichochus II named the city after his wife, Laodice.  It was a prosperous city, because it was located at a crossroad between East and West  and North and South travel. Laodicea was also a medical center. Fr. McIlhone mentioned that they possessed a special treatment for illnesses related to the eyes.  In the book of Revelation, this city was one of the seven Churches John addressed (Rev 3:14-22). It also is mentioned in Colossians 2:1 and 4:13-16.  In the latter quotation, both Laodicea and Hierapolis are mentioned as Epaphras’s work.

After a two hour journey, we approached Laodicea. As we arrived, several local women, picking cotton, watched as our bus approached the ruins. The site had numerous ancient, ruined structures.  There was an aqueduct, stadium, and amphitheater.  We were surrounded by mountains and the air temperature was perfect, and we prepared for the celebration of Sunday Mass at the site.  Prior to the Mass, Sr. Kathleen read Rev 3:14-22. Between the readings, prayers, and songs, all we could hear was the birds flying through the empty and broken structures. After Mass, people took pictures and explored the ruins.

As we left, Father Peter Damian asked how we felt after the visit. Many seminarians replied that they felt a little shocked.  At one time, there was a Christian community in this place, and now the faith and city are destroyed.  The Laodicean community did not fulfill their mission.  After Laodicea, we went back onto the bus and to our next hotel.  We ate lunch and then traveled to Hierapolis.

In latter part of the 2^nd century BC,  Eumenes II founded the city of Hieropolis.  At this site, there are hot springs, fantastic calcium deposits, and around 3,000 tombs.  These large stone tombs, made out of massive rocks, lined the road to the city gates.  Carved into some of these structures we could see Greek writing.  As we approached the city gates, all we could see was ancient stone graves. The city gates were similar to Perga, with a pathway, columns, and many ruined structures.  Yet the columns were still beautiful. 

After the gates, we saw the calcium carbonate deposits.  They lie on a mountain and look like a glacier as they coat the entire side of the mountain.  The name of the place is Pammukale, which means “Cotton Castle” in Turkish. At the mountain’s summit, there is a hot spring rich in calcium carbonate, which forms these white deposits on the mountainside as it flows down.  Many of the seminarians walked around in the spring.  It was only a few feet deep and the temperature was warm.  After this visit and many pictures, we traveled back to the hotel for evening prayer and dinner. 

The hotel in the valley below was built over a natural hot spring, and a pool had been built for the natural hot waters to flow into.  This hotel and hot springs are a popular spa destination for many Europeans, especially Germans.  Hotel guests could swim or soak in this hot spring pool, and many of us took advantage of that.  With the hot spring came some very fine silt and mud, which was said to be great for the skin.  The water temperature was like a very relaxing hot bath.  It was the simply the most perfect way to loosen stiff muscles and relax after a week of sitting on a bus for so many hours in one week.

Thank you for following our travels, and please continue to pray for our pilgrimage 

Day 9:  Ephesus and the house of the Blessed Virgin Mary

Day nine was a pilgrimage highlight.  After an early departure from Hieropolis, we traveled west to Miletus, riding through the Meander River valley, which consists of some of Turkey’s most fertile land.  On the way, we saw small towns and experienced narrow roads.  The sun was out and the temperature wonderful.  At one point, the bus had to slow down, because there was a herd of cows in the road. 

During the travel, Fr. McIlhone lectured on Miletus, a city was first inhabited as early as between 1600 and 1200 BC.  At the conclusion of his third missionary journey, Paul visited this city, which was a prosperous place with a harbor and numerous buildings.  When Paul came, he instructed the Ephesian elders to come to Miletus for a meeting.  Paul’s  emotional speech to this group is found in Acts 20: 15-38. 

As we approached the Miletus ruins, we could see a massive Greco-Roman theater dominating the road to the city.  Then we gathered together and Fr. Ahlstrom read Paul’s speech from Acts 20:15-38.  In this city, we saw the theater and ancient Roman baths. 

After a brief visit, we returned to the bus and traveled to Ephesus.  During this trip, one seminarian shared a reflection with the group.  When someone visits a foreign country, they, he explained, usually feel a little lost and away from home.  This seminarian, however, felt as if he was visiting his grandparents’ home.  He said that we are visiting our family in the faith and should strive to seize this time.  These Christians passed on the faith to us and now we must fulfill this mission of also passing on our faith.

After the bus ride, we arrived in Ephesus, a gold-mine of early Christian history.  Saint John the evangelist lived here, Paul visited the city and wrote a letter to the Ephesian community.  Also, this city held an ecumenical council in the fifth century.  But what was of greater interest to many of us is the strong tradition that St. John brought the Blessed Virgin Mary here. 

After lunch, we visited the Church of St. John.  This edifice was built over Saint John’s tomb in the 6^th century.  It, however, was mostly destroyed in the 8^th century with only some walls and columns remaining. An ancient Roman castle overlooks the ruins. We gathered around the structure of St. John’s tomb, which supposedly still contains his remains. Men prayed and took pictures.  It was awesome to be in the presence of the “disciple whom Jesus loved.” 

We returned to the bus and traveled to the house of the Virgin Mary. Supposedly, this is the house where John brought Mary after Pentecost. This small house is at a mountain’s summit. When we arrived at the site, I was a little skeptical and wondered if this was just a fiscal project.  When I entered the house, I was struck with the my fellow seminarians’ faith.  Many were kneeling or preparing to light candles.  After a time of reflection, we gathered for Mass.  This was a special celebration, because it was Fr. Peter Damien’s 37^th anniversary.  The Mass was celebrated at a beautiful outside alter just next to the house (There were too many of us to fit into the house all at once).  Two ancient type columns supported the altar and there were roses on it.  During the liturgy, there was a deep silence and the sun was warm. 

After the celebration, everyone congratulated Fr. Peter and we traveled to the Ephesian ruins, which are some of the world’s best ancient ruins. One of the highlights was the Library of Celsus. The library’s façade is still intact and is from the 1^st century AD.  Columns support its two separate levels.  It was an amazing sight.  Everyone took a picture.  We also saw their amphitheater, which was the site of the silver smith riot narrated in Acts 19.  While in this theatre, Tony successfully tested its acoustics with a solo performance, which was quite impressive (both the acoustics and the song).  Today, they still have concerts in the summertime. 

In these ruins, there were some wonderful ancient reliefs.  For instance, there was a first century carving of the Greek goddess Nike.  After many pictures and silent prayers, we returned to the bus for a long ride to Smyrna, or modern-day Izmir.  After dinner, we had a surprise party for Fr. Peter Damian to congratulate him on his many years of priestly service. 

Prior to this party in the hotel, Hoang, a seminarian, met a young Turkish man who was wanting to begin the process of converting to Catholicism.  Hoang is our new Saint Paul! 

Please, continue to pray for us as we continue our pilgrimage.

Day 10:  Smyrna & Pergamon

The pilgrimage’s 10^th day was more or less a travel day. As mentioned in the previous day’s journal entry, we awoke in Izmir, or Smyrna.  Smyrna was one of the seven churches John addressed in the book of Revelation in chapters 2 and 3. 

At our hotel, one of the workers was interested in becoming Catholic and had spoken with Hoang and Fr. Peter Damian. These two invited him to come to today’s Mass, which was at Saint Polycarp Church in Smyrna to celebrate the liturgy. On the way to the church, Hoang introduced his guest. In a later conversation, he explained to me some of the reasons he was converting.  This hotel worker had read the New Testament, had a priest friend, and was struck with the beauty of Polycarp’s church.

When we arrived, our group walked into what looked like a fairly normal building on the outside.  Once we entered, an Italian nun greeted and directed us into the church.  It was beautiful.  The edifice was filled with frescos and marble.  This was one of the first Catholic Churches we have visited on the pilgrimage.

At St. Polycarp’s Church, we had a brief meeting with the bishop of Smyrna, and he addressed us briefly.  Of course, everyone gave him a warm welcome.  The bishop spoke to us about the challenges of his diocese and asked for our prayers for the Catholic Church in Turkey, which had a membership less than an average American parish.  After the Bishop’s address, we celebrated the liturgy.  At the conclusion of the Mass, everyone wished the hotel worker well and promised him our prayers. Throughout the trip, one of the themes we have been discussing is Christianity’s absence in Turkey.  This young Turkish man’s desire for the faith was a gift from God. 

We returned to the bus and traveled to Pergamon.  This city’s origin is unknown, but scholars believe that it was established at an early date.  It is one of the churches that John addressed in Revelation, Rev 2:12-17.  As we traveled to this site, Fr. McIlhone lectured to us on its history and read this text from Revelation.  The site was on a hill’s summit.  From the ruins, we saw green hills, mosques, and a small town.  At Pergamon, there was an impressive amphitheater, which had a tremendous slope.  Furthermore, there were the ruins of various temples and this was the site of an altar of Zeus.  Our guide led us through the ruins.  Some people took pictures and others reflected.  In each place we visit, I am struck that people lived in this place such a long time ago and practiced Christianity. 

After this visit, we went to a neighboring section of the ruins, Asclepion, which boasted an ancient healing center, an ancient hospital of sorts.  Our guide showed us some of places the ancients placed the sick and told us about the treatments they employed, everything from dream analysis to mud baths.  After this brief visit, we departed for our hotel in Assos.

Please continue to pray for us on our journey.